Start with the kind of trip: the fish, the water and the technique decide the rod, the line and the bait. Here are ready-made kits, every piece explained, and the tables every angler checks.
The field rule: clear water and sun call for natural colors; stained water and low light call for contrast and silhouette. Pick the water and light you have right now.
quick reference
tables every angler uses
lines: diameter x strength
mm
lb
kg
0.16
5
2.3
0.18
6
2.7
0.20
8
3.6
0.23
10
4.5
0.25
12
5.4
0.28
14
6.4
0.30
15
6.8
0.33
18
8.2
0.35
20
9.1
0.40
25
11.3
0.45
30
13.6
0.50
35
15.9
0.55
40
18.1
0.60
50
22.7
0.70
60
27.2
0.80
80
36.3
0.90
100
45.4
1.00
120
54.4
PE
mm
lb
kg
0.4
0.10
8
3.6
0.6
0.13
12
5.4
0.8
0.15
16
7.3
1.0
0.17
20
9.1
1.2
0.18
24
10.9
1.5
0.20
30
13.6
2.0
0.23
35
15.9
2.5
0.26
40
18.1
3.0
0.28
50
22.7
4.0
0.33
60
27.2
5.0
0.37
80
36.3
6.0
0.41
90
40.8
8.0
0.47
110
49.9
10.0
0.52
130
59.0
mm
lb
kg
0.20
6
2.7
0.23
8
3.6
0.26
10
4.5
0.28
12
5.4
0.33
16
7.3
0.37
20
9.1
0.41
25
11.3
0.47
30
13.6
0.52
40
18.1
0.57
50
22.7
0.62
60
27.2
0.74
80
36.3
0.81
100
45.4
0.91
130
59.0
Average market values. Diameter and strength vary between brands and models: check the package and distrust line that is too thin for the advertised rating.
Conversion: 1 lb = 0.4536 kg.
PE numbering follows the Japanese standard (JAFS), which defines braided line by mass (No. 1 = 200 denier), not by diameter: the millimeters in the table are approximate (PE 1.0 is close to 0.165 to 0.17 mm). The strength of the same PE varies with the number of strands and the fiber.
Fluorocarbon is usually a little thicker than monofilament for the same rating, but it resists abrasion better.
Every knot costs strength. A well-tied knot loses little; a badly tightened knot can cut the strength in half.
Monofilament loses strength with sun, heat and time in use. Replace it at least once a season.
Braided line stretches less than 5%; monofilament stretches much more. With braid, set the drag more carefully.
drag setting
Set the drag between 25% and 33% (a quarter to a third) of the strength of the weakest part of the setup: line, leader or knot. Measure with a scale: run the line through the guides, hook it to the scale and pull with the rod bent at a fighting angle, until the line comes off smoothly. With monofilament, stay near 25%, because it stretches and cushions. With braid and leader, calculate by the leader's or the knot's rating. The effective drag rises when the spool empties and when there is a lot of line in the water: with a fish running far, lighten the drag rather than tightening it. In heavy structure, like tucunaré-açu in timber or frog in vegetation, many anglers work above that, close to the equipment limit, knowing the risk. With lines over 50 lb, the maximum drag of the reel is often lower than the table value: then the equipment is the limit. When storing, release the drag.
line
drag
4 lb
0.45 to 0.6
6 lb
0.7 to 0.9
8 lb
0.9 to 1.2
10 lb
1.1 to 1.5
12 lb
1.4 to 1.8
15 lb
1.7 to 2.2
20 lb
2.3 to 3.0
25 lb
2.8 to 3.7
30 lb
3.4 to 4.5
40 lb
4.5 to 6.0
50 lb
5.7 to 7.5
65 lb
7.4 to 9.7
80 lb
9.1 to 12.0
100 lb
11.3 to 15.0
130 lb
14.7 to 19.5
hook sizing
size
usage
18 to 14
Fish with a very small mouth and small flies. lambari, piaba for bait, small trout flies
12 to 10
Small fish with worm or dough. large lambari, small tilapia, small mandi, acará
8 to 6
Small to medium mouth fish at a fishing pond, river and lake. tilapia, mandi, jundiá, small piau
4 to 2
Medium small-mouth fish; beach with corrupto and tatuí. piau, piapara, pampo, betara, carpa
1 to 1/0
Medium natural bait, small live bait and treble hooks for medium minnow. large pompano and betara, peva snook with shrimp, corvina, sargo-de-dente
2/0 to 3/0
Live bait and soft lures for medium predators; pacu and tambacu. arrow snook with shrimp or sardine, traíra with lambari, peacock bass with live bait, pacu and tambacu, medium zara treble hooks
4/0 to 6/0
Large bottom fish and bulky natural bait. pintado and cachara with tuvira, golden dorado with natural bait, grouper and snapper, tambaqui, reinforced treble hooks for large baits
7/0 to 10/0
Large leather-skin fish, large live bait at sea and corrico. large pintado and cachara, medium jaú, pirarara, tuna with live bait (circle), sea dorado and tuna on the corrico
11/0 to 16/0
River giants and billfish with natural bait. large jaú, piraíba, marlin with natural bait (circle)
Up to size 1, the higher the number, the smaller the hook (an 18 is smaller than a 2). From 1/0 up the scale reverses: a 5/0 is bigger than a 1/0.
rods
the rod casts the lure, feels the fish and tires the fish. choose by technique, not by brand.
Start with the technique and the lure weight. Then look at four things. Power (line rating): the range of line and lure the rod handles, written on the blank. Action: where the rod bends. Fast action bends only at the tip and gives a crisp hookset and precision; moderate action bends down to the middle and forgives more with treble hooks and holds head shakes. Length: a short rod gives precision near cover; a long one gives distance. Material: carbon is light and sensitive; fiberglass is heavy and almost unbreakable; composite sits in between. A baitcasting rod has small guides and a trigger grip; a spinning rod has a large first guide. Do not swap one for the other.
see 9 items in rods
rods$$
Baitcasting rod for casting
The standard rod for peacock bass, trahira, snook and black bass with artificial lures.
sizes and how to choose
Length
5'6" to 6'6" (1.68 to 1.98 m)
Action
fast to extra-fast; moderate-fast for lures with treble hooks
Define the most-used lure. Lures of 7 to 12 g call for a rod rated 8 to 17 lb; 10 to 20 g, 12 to 25 lb; large zaras and tucunaré-açu propellers, 20 to 40 lb. Fast action works best for zara, jig and soft plastics; moderate-fast forgives more on crankbait and suspending-lure treble hooks. Use 5'6" to 6'0" for precise casts from the boat into submerged timber and 6'6" for distance on open reservoirs. Prefer one-piece or two-piece with a firm joint.
Set up the baitcaster at the shop and test the balance: the combo should sit level when resting on your finger just in front of the spool.
Keep two rods rigged on the boat: one for surface and one for mid-water or bottom.
For tucunaré-açu, prefer a longer rear grip: it helps work the zara and fight the fish.
Using a 10–20 lb rod with a 15 cm zara and 65 lb braid: it breaks on the first big fish.
Casting a lure well below the rod's minimum weight: it does not load and the baitcaster backlashes.
Reeling the lure in until it touches the tip guide: cracks the tip.
Match the rod to the reel size and the line. A 1000 to 2500 reel goes with a 4 to 10 lb or 6 to 14 lb rod; 3000 to 4000 with 10 to 20 lb or 12 to 25 lb. Moderate action for natural bait and pay lakes: the fish swallows before it feels the rod. Fast action for artificial lures. Length 6'0" to 7'0": the longer rod casts light lures farther and controls the line better from the bank. A large, well-aligned first guide reduces friction and line twist.
To start, a 6'6" rod rated 10–20 lb with a 3000 reel covers pay lakes, reservoirs and rivers.
Lures under 7 g cast better on a spinning reel than on a baitcaster.
At the end of the cast, touch the spool edge with your index finger to slow the lure before it hits the water.
Mounting a baitcaster reel on a spinning rod (or the reverse): the guides do not fit.
A large reel on an ultralight rod: heavy and tiring setup.
The telescopic fits in the trunk; the one-piece is more sensitive and more durable.
sizes and how to choose
Length open
1.8 to 4.5 m
Length closed
50 to 120 cm
Action
usually moderate
Material
fiberglass (cheap and heavy) or carbon
Use
natural bait, pay lake, beach and travel
A telescopic rod folds to 50 to 120 cm and suits anyone travelling by car, motorbike or bus, for pay lakes, the bank and waiting fishing. It loses sensitivity and the joints can loosen. A one-piece or two-piece rod transmits bites better and holds up more. If you buy a telescopic, prefer carbon with reinforced guides, align the guides by turning each section, and do not force it open. For beach fishing there are telescopics from 3.6 to 4.5 m.
Open from tip to base and close from base to tip.
After fishing in the sea, rinse the open rod with fresh water and let it dry before closing.
Sand in the joints locks the rod: clean each section before closing.
Casting artificial lures all day with a telescopic: it loses precision and tires you out.
Opening it with a jerk: the sections lock or crack.
Storing it closed and wet: the guides rust and the sections seize together.
Here the bait is natural and heavy, and the fish runs for its hole. The rod needs backbone, not long-distance casting. Choose 1.65 to 2.1 m, moderate to moderate-fast action and a 20 to 50 lb rating for surubim, cachara and pargo; 40 to 80 lb for jaú and pirarara. Fiberglass or composite can take the knocks on the boat and on the bank. When drifting, a short rod makes it easier to lift the fish off the bottom. Pair it with a round-profile baitcaster or a 5000 to 8000 spinning reel.
When drifting, the tip has to be sensitive enough to feel the sinker bumping the bottom.
A white or orange tip helps you see the bite at night.
Prefer good ceramic guides: braid cuts through a poor guide.
Rod too soft: the surubim runs into a snag and does not come out.
Rod too heavy for the fish: it tears the mouth or opens the hook.
Leaving the spare rod loose: a jaú takes the whole setup downstream.
Long rod for casting heavy sinkers past the surf or working bait over the rocks.
sizes and how to choose
Length
3.6 to 4.5 m (beach) · 2.4 to 3.6 m (rocky shore)
Casting weight
50–200 g (beach) · 20–100 g (rocky shore)
Action
moderate, with a sensitive tip
Pieces
2 or 3
Material
carbon or composite
Spinning reel
5000 to 14000, long-spool for the beach
On the beach, the sinker weight decides: check the casting weight printed on the blank. Calm seas and pompano call for 3.6 to 3.9 m for 50 to 120 g; rough seas and large croaker, 4.2 to 4.5 m for 100 to 200 g. A sensitive tip of solid carbon or fiberglass shows the bite. On the rocky shore with natural bait, 2.7 to 3.6 m helps lift the line off the rocks; with artificial lures, 2.4 to 3.0 m and 20 to 60 g.
Use a stand (tripod or pipe in the sand) and keep the line taut to read the tip.
A 0.50 to 0.70 mm monofilament shock leader protects the main line on hard casts.
Rinse rod and reel with fresh water after every trip.
Sinker heavier than the blank's limit: the rod snaps on the cast.
Rod too short for the beach: the wave drags the line and the lure comes back to the shore.
Casting without looking behind you: a hook in someone who is walking past.
It casts the line, not the fly. Numbered #1 to #14 according to line weight.
sizes and how to choose
Length
8'6" to 9'0" (2.59 to 2.74 m)
Weight
#3–#5 (light) · #6–#8 (medium) · #9–#12 (heavy and sea)
Action
medium to fast
Pieces
4 (travel standard)
Material
carbono
The rod number must match the line and the reel. For peacock bass and dorado, the standard is #7 to #9 in a 9 ft (2.74 m) rod; for tucunaré-açu with large flies and wind, #9 or #10. Lambari, tilapia and trout, #3 to #5. Fast action casts bulky flies into the wind; medium action is easier to learn. A four-piece rod makes air travel easier. Details in the Fly fishing category.
Take a light spare rod on long trips: tip breakage is common.
Assemble the sections lining up the guides and check the joints every hour of fishing.
When fighting a big fish, keep the rod low and to the side.
Line of a different weight from the rod: the cast does not load.
A #5 rod for tucunaré-açu: it neither turns the fish nor casts a large fly.
Lifting the rod vertically to pull the fish out of the brush: it breaks in the upper third.
Short, strong rod for working metal jigs vertically, from the drop-off to the continental slope.
sizes and how to choose
Length
5'0" to 5'8" (speed) · 6'3" to 6'8" (slow pitch)
Line
PE 3–8 (speed) · PE 1.5–3 (slow pitch)
Jig weight
80 to 400 g
Action
fast (speed) · parabolic (slow pitch)
Material
carbono
Speed jigging uses a 5'0" to 5'8" rod, strong backbone, PE 3 to 8 and jigs of 100 to 400 g, with fast work. Slow pitch uses a 6'3" to 6'8" parabolic rod with a tip that returns the jig; choose by the maximum jig weight printed (for example up to 250 g or up to 400 g) and use PE 1.5 to 3. The rod is chosen by the jig weight that depth and current demand, not by the size of the fish. Pair it with a jigging reel or a 6000 to 14000 spinning reel.
Slow pitch reference: 1 to 2 g of jig per meter of depth; increase if the line angles away from the current.
Carry jigs of three weights for each spot: the current changes through the day.
In speed jigging with a big fish, use a fighting belt with a socket for the butt of the rod.
Slow pitch rod with a jig over the limit: it stays bent and the jig does not glide.
Line too thick: the current pushes it around and you lose contact with the bottom.
Ignoring the blank's maximum weight when fighting a large bigeye.
Choose by line class: 20, 30, 50, 80 or 130 lb. For mahi-mahi, bonito and king mackerel, 20 to 30 lb is enough. Tuna and sailfish, 30 to 50 lb. Blue marlin, 50 to 130 lb. The stand-up rod is 5'6" to 6'0", with a short butt and works with a fighting belt and harness. For trolling from the rod holder, 6'0" to 7'0". Roller guides reduce friction on heavy line under load. A gimbal-socket butt clips onto the belt and the rod holder.
Match the rod, line and reel class: 50 lb with 50 lb.
Check the roller guides: a seized roller cuts the line.
Use a fighting belt and harness for fish over 30 kg: it protects your lower back.
An 80 lb rod with 30 lb line: the rod does not bend and the line snaps on the hookset.
Leaving the rod in the holder without a safety strap.
Fighting with your arms alone instead of using your legs and body when pumping.
Simple rod with the line tied to the tip. Cheap, light and great for lambari and tilapia.
sizes and how to choose
Length
3 to 7 m
Material
bamboo, fiberglass or carbon
Line
0.18 to 0.25 mm monofilament, matched to the pole
Target fish
up to 1–2 kg
Can be bamboo or fiberglass and carbon (telescopic, without guides). The length sets how far the bait reaches: 3 to 4.5 m for pond or pay-lake banks; 5 to 7 m to reach the edge of the vegetation. Use 0.18 to 0.25 mm line matched to the pole, a small float and a size 12 to 16 hook for lambari. For tilapia, 0.25 mm line and a small Japanese hook. Not for big fish: there is no drag to give line.
Tie the line to the middle of the pole too, not only to the tip: if the tip breaks, the fish does not get away.
Chum the spot with cracked corn or bran and always fish in the same place.
Great for teaching a child: there is no reel to tangle.
Line much longer than the pole: you lose control and the hookset.
Striking hard on lambari: it tears the mouth; a flick of the wrist is enough.
Using a carbon pole near power lines: carbon conducts electricity.
easy to use and without the backlash of a baitcaster. the size sets line, weight and drag.
The size number (1000, 2500, 4000...) indicates the body size. It is not standard across brands, but the logic is the same: the bigger the number, the more line, drag and weight. Choose by the line you will use. Check the maximum drag in kg, the retrieve in centimeters per handle turn (more useful than the gear ratio, because it depends on the spool diameter) and the sealing against water and sand. The number of bearings says little; quality and sealing matter more. A shallow spool saves braid. Front drag is stronger and smoother; rear drag is more practical and weaker.
see 8 items in spinning reels
spinning reels$
Small spinning reel (1000 to 2500)
For fine lines, light lures and fish up to about 3 kg.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
100–150 m of 0.20–0.25 mm mono or PE 0.6–1.2
Maximum drag
3 to 5 kg
Retrieve
60 to 85 cm per turn
Gear ratio
5.0:1 to 6.2:1
Weight
170 to 250 g
Choose a 1000 for lambari, ultralight and trout; 2000 to 2500 for tilapia, black bass, fat snook and lures of 3 to 10 g. Pair with a 4 to 14 lb rod. Accepts 0.16 to 0.25 mm monofilament or PE 0.4 to 1.2 braid. A maximum drag of 3 to 5 kg is enough. Check that the rotor turns without play and that the drag releases line steadily, without jerks: fine line does not forgive uneven drag.
Fill the spool to 1 to 2 mm from the edge: overfilled it lays loops; underfilled it loses distance.
With thin braid, use a shallow spool or make a mono backing.
Close the bail (pick-up) with your hand, not by turning the handle: it twists the line less.
Tighten the drag until it locks with 0.20 mm line.
Spooling new line with the spool turning the wrong way: the line comes off twisted.
Choosing the smallest reel to stay light, and fishing an 8 kg tambacu at the pay lake.
The most versatile: pay lake, reservoir, river and calm-sea beach.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
150 m of 0.30–0.35 mm mono or PE 1.5–3
Maximum drag
6 to 11 kg
Retrieve
75 to 100 cm per turn
Gear ratio
5.2:1 to 6.2:1
Weight
230 to 320 g
This is the size for someone who will own only one. 3000 for snook, trahira, yellow peacock bass and large tilapia; 4000 for large peacock bass, dorado, tambacu at the pay lake and calm-sea beach. Accepts PE 1.5 to 3 (30 to 50 lb) or 0.30 to 0.35 mm monofilament. Look for a maximum drag of 7 kg or more, a firm rotor and a retrieve of 80 to 100 cm per turn for artificial lures.
If you will only use braid, prefer a shallow spool or a model with an extra spool.
High-retrieve versions (HG, XG) help with zara and jigs; for crankbaits and natural bait, the normal ratio is enough.
Rinse with a gentle stream of fresh water and the drag tightened, so no water gets into the washers.
Choose by the number of bearings.
Turning the handle with the drag slipping: twists the line and creates a tangle.
For strong fish in rivers, rocky shores, beaches and pay lakes with big fish.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
200 m of 0.40 mm mono or PE 3–4
Maximum drag
10 to 15 kg
Retrieve
90 to 110 cm per turn
Weight
350 to 500 g
Use it when the line is over 0.40 mm or PE 3. It suits surubim and cachara from the bank, dorado in wide rivers, large tambacu, rocky shore with natural bait, crevalle jack and bluefish. Look for 10 to 15 kg drag, a metal or reinforced resin body and good sealing. It is heavy for casting artificial lures all day: it pays off in bait fishing, with natural bait and occasional casts.
With thick monofilament, fill to 2 mm from the edge and clip the tip to the spool clip when storing.
Check the drag with a scale before fishing for big fish.
On the rocky shore, prefer a sealed model: sea spray gets into the bearings.
Buying a cheap rear drag in this size: it will not hold a big fish.
Leaving the rod in the holder with the drag locked and no free-spool: the fish takes everything.
Line too light on the rocky shore: you lose the fish on the rock.
Wide, tapered spool for casting heavy sinkers far.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
250–300 m of 0.30–0.35 mm mono
Size
6000 to 14000 (varies by brand)
Spool
long and tapered, low-flanged
Maximum drag
6 to 15 kg
Weight
450 to 650 g
The long, low-flanged spool reduces friction at the line exit and gives you extra meters. Sizes run from 6000 to 14000, with numbering that varies by brand. Choose one that holds 250 m of 0.30 to 0.35 mm mono, plus the shock leader. The slow spool oscillation crosses the layers and keeps the line from sinking into the lower layers. It needs sealing and corrosion-protected bearings.
Always use a 0.50 to 0.70 mm mono shock leader, long enough to give 5 to 6 wraps on the spool with the sinker ready for the cast.
Protect the finger that holds the line during the cast with a thimble or tape: thin line cuts.
Do not rest the reel on the sand: use a high stand or a cover.
Casting 100 g without a shock leader: the line snaps and the sinker turns into a projectile.
High drag and a sealed body for popping and jigging: tuna, bigeye and large jack.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
300 m of PE 3–8
Maximum drag
15 to 30 kg
Retrieve
110 to 150 cm per turn
Weight
600 to 900 g
Sealing
required
Popping with 60 to 150 g plugs calls for sizes 14000 to 20000 with PE 5 to 8. Medium jigging and popping, 8000 to 10000 with PE 3 to 5. Look for 15 to 30 kg maximum drag, a rigid body and rotor, metal gears and saltwater sealing. A retrieve over 110 cm per turn helps when the fish comes toward the boat. It is a high investment; with maintenance it lasts many years.
Set the drag with a scale before leaving: for popping, 25% to 30% of the PE's breaking strength.
Service it once a year with a grease change.
Put a few wraps of mono or tape on the bottom of the spool before the PE.
Using a freshwater reel in the sea: it corrodes in one season.
Tightening the drag during the fight without knowing how much is already set.
Winding PE directly onto a smooth spool: the line slips under load.
Drag knob behind the body: practical, cheap and with less force.
sizes and how to choose
Sizes
1000 to 6000
Maximum drag
2 to 6 kg (less than front drag of the same size)
Adjustment
knob on the rear of the body
Use
pay lake, waiting fishing, beginner
The rear knob makes it easy to adjust the drag with the fish on the line and the rod in the holder. It suits pay lakes, the bank and beginners well. The downside is lower maximum drag and a less smooth feel, because the washers are small and sit away from the spool. For fish over 5 kg or long fights, prefer front drag. If you choose rear drag, test it: the line should come off smoothly when pulled by hand, without jerks.
Some models have a lever to tighten the drag quickly during the fight.
Mark the position of the knob you use with a pen: it is easy to return to the setting.
Good for a child: the setting is simple to understand.
Use on large tucunaré-açu or dorado.
Confusing the drag knob with the anti-reverse lock.
Setting the hook with the knob fully loose: the hook does not penetrate.
Releases line with minimum tension while the fish takes the bait; one turn of the handle returns the normal drag.
sizes and how to choose
Sizes
3000 to 8000
System
second drag, low tension, engaged by a lever
Main drag
front, 6 to 12 kg
Use
waiting, live bait, carp and catfish
Made for bait fishing with natural bait: carp, tambacu, pacu, catfish and snook with live bait. The fish takes and runs without feeling resistance, and the rod is not dragged. When setting the hook, turn the handle: the system disengages and the main drag takes over. Choose sizes 4000 to 6000 for pay lakes and rivers. Set the free-spool tension just enough that the current does not pull line off on its own.
In a river with current, tighten the free-spool tension a little so the line does not run off on its own.
Wait for the fish to settle its run before turning the handle.
With a circle hook, do not jerk: turn the handle and let the line tighten.
Forgetting the system is engaged and casting artificial lures.
Free-spool tension at zero: the spool spins too freely on the run and tangles the line.
Braid is thin and strong: 150 m of PE 1.5 takes up little room. On a deep spool you would need a mono backing or hundreds of meters you will never use. The shallow spool solves it with less line and less weight on the rotor. Several manufacturers mark a shallow spool with a letter in the code (S or SS, for example); check the capacity on the label. For thick mono or beach fishing, prefer a deep or long spool.
Put a few wraps of mono or tape on the bottom of the spool so the braid does not slip.
Keep the line 1–2 mm from the edge.
An extra spool lets you swap line on the boat in minutes.
Putting 0.35 mm mono on a shallow spool: little line fits.
Underfilling the spool: you lose distance and the line rubs the edge.
more precision and power. requires thumb training to avoid backlash.
The baitcaster gives precise casts, power on the retrieve and line that comes off the spool straight, without twist. The price is backlash: the spool turns faster than the lure flies and the line tangles. Three adjustments solve it: spool tension (knob beside the handle), brake (magnetic, centrifugal or digital) and thumb. A low profile is for artificial lures; a round profile holds more line and handles bottom fish. A gear ratio of 6.3:1 to 7.3:1 is the middle ground; 8:1 or more for zara and jigs; near 5:1 for crankbaits and power. Right- or left-hand retrieve is a matter of habit; those who do not want to switch the rod to the other hand use the handle on the side opposite the casting hand.
see 7 items in baitcasting reels
baitcasting reels$$
Low-profile baitcaster
Compact and ergonomic. The standard for casting artificial lures.
sizes and how to choose
Size
100/150 (compact) · 200/300 (larger); varies by brand
Capacity
100 to 200 m of PE 2–5
Maximum drag
5 to 10 kg
Gear ratio
6.3:1 to 8.1:1
Retrieve
65 to 90 cm per turn
Weight
150 to 250 g
Smaller sizes (numbered 100 to 150, depending on the brand) hold about 100 to 150 m of PE 2 to 4; larger ones (200 to 300) hold more line and are the standard for tucunaré-açu and long-fight fish. Look for a 5 to 10 kg maximum drag, a light spool if you will use lures under 10 g, and a brake that is easy to adjust. A gear ratio of 7:1 to 8:1 for zara, propeller and jig; near 6:1 for crankbaits and spinnerbaits. A metal body twists less than a graphite one.
Adjust the tension: release the spool with the lure hanging; it should drop slowly and the spool should stop when the lure touches the ground.
Touch your thumb to the spool an instant before the lure hits the water.
When travelling, take a baitcaster or a spare spool already loaded with line.
Casting at full power in the first hours: start with a high brake and ease off gradually.
Casting into the wind with a low brake.
Using braid under PE 1.5 on a basic baitcaster: the line sinks into the spool and tangles.
More line and more power. Standard for bottom fish, drift and boat fishing.
sizes and how to choose
Size
4000 to 7000 (market standard; varies by brand)
Capacity
150 to 300 m of 0.40–0.60 mm mono or PE 4–8
Maximum drag
6 to 12 kg
Gear ratio
4.2:1 to 6.4:1
Extras
audible clicker, aluminum body
The larger spool holds 150 to 300 m of heavy line, and the cylindrical body handles heavy torsion. Smaller sizes (numbered like 4000 and 5000) suit dorado, pacu and tucunaré with large bait; larger ones (6000 to 7000) for surubim, cachara, jaú and deep-sea bottom. Look for a 7 to 12 kg drag, aluminum body and metal gears. Many have an audible clicker that warns of line run during the wait.
When drifting, use your thumb to feel the sinker and release line in time with the boat.
While waiting, turn on the clicker and ease the drag: the fish runs without dragging the rod.
Lubricate the spool shaft and the line guide worm gear on every trip.
Reeling line in without tension: during the fight, the line sinks into the loose wraps and locks.
Casting a light lure: the heavy spool does not accelerate and backlashes.
Forgetting the clicker is on during a cast: the line locks and the lure comes back.
Magnets slow the spool throughout the whole cast. Easy adjustment from the outside.
sizes and how to choose
Adjustment
external knob with scale
Action
continuous during the cast
Best with
lures of 5 to 20 g, headwind, beginner
Limit
can take off a little distance on long casts
The external knob changes the magnets' force without opening the baitcaster. The brake works throughout the cast, including the end, when the lure loses speed and backlash usually starts. It is best for beginners, light lures and short precision casts. Prefer a wide scale and clear markings. Start with the brake almost at maximum and lower it one step at a time until the lure travels far without backlash.
Adjust brake and tension together: tension controls the start; the brake, the middle and the end of the cast.
With a headwind, raise the brake two steps.
With a heavy lure and a tailwind, you can lower it.
Setting the brake to zero to gain distance.
Adjusting only the tension and forgetting the brake.
Pads that rub at the start of the cast, when the spool turns fastest.
sizes and how to choose
Adjustment
turns pads on and off (side cover) or external selector
Action
strong at the start, weak at the end
Best with
10 g lures and up, long casts
Requires
thumb at the end of the cast
The pads (usually 4 to 6) open by centrifugal force and rub against a ring. The effect is strong at the start and almost gone at the end, which is why the cast goes long and smooth with medium and heavy lures. Adjustment is done by turning pads on or off with the side cover open; some models have an external selector. It requires more thumb at the end of the cast. Good for someone who already casts well and needs distance.
Start with half the pads on, in opposite positions.
A pad dirty with oil loses friction: clean it with a dry cloth.
On a windy day, raise the spool tension one step.
Turning on pads on one side only: unbalanced spool.
Lubricating the brake ring.
Expecting the same control as a magnetic brake with a very light lure.
A microprocessor reads the spool's rotation and adjusts the brake during the cast.
sizes and how to choose
Adjustment
mode selector + external fine tuning
Power
generated by the spool's rotation, no battery
Advantage
automatic control with wind and varied lures
Sound
distinctive hum during the cast
The system corrects the brake continuously and nearly eliminates backlash, even with wind and lures of different weights. Choose by the adjustment: an external mode selector (line type, distance or control) plus fine tuning. It takes no battery: the power comes from the spool's rotation. It is the most expensive option; worth it for those who cast all day, chase trophy fish and do not want to lose time untangling.
Select the mode for the line type you are using: the reading changes between mono and braid.
Even with a digital brake, touch your thumb to the spool when the lure hits the water.
Keep the spool tension set: the digital controls the brake, not the start.
Thinking it replaces the tension adjustment.
Buying the most expensive one before learning the basics with a magnetic brake.
Drag set by a lever with marked positions. Standard for offshore trolling.
sizes and how to choose
Class
20, 30, 50, 80 or 130 lb
Drag
lever with strike and full positions
Typical strike
about 25% to 33% of the line's breaking strength
Speeds
1 or 2
Capacity
400 to 1,000 m, depending on class
The lever sets the drag progressively and repeatably, with a pre-set strike position and a full position for the end of the fight. Choose by line class: sizes 12 to 20 for 20 lb (mahi-mahi, king mackerel, wahoo); 30 for 30 lb; 50 for tuna and sailfish; 80 to 130 for large blue marlin. Two-speed models help lift heavy fish from below the boat. Use a rod of the same class.
Set the strike with a scale, with the line running through the guides and the rod bent.
With the spool nearly empty, the effective drag rises: ease the lever instead of tightening it.
When storing, leave the lever in the free position to rest the washers.
Storing with the drag engaged: deforms the washers.
Line stronger than the rod's class.
Filling the spool without tension: the line sinks in during a long fight.
Compact, strong baitcaster for working jigs vertically with control of the drop.
sizes and how to choose
Capacity
300 m of PE 1.5–3 (slow) · PE 3–5 (speed)
Maximum drag
7 to 15 kg
Gear ratio
5:1 to 6.3:1
Handle
long, with a large grip
Extra
line counter (optional)
For slow pitch, a small low- or round-profile baitcaster with a long handle gives the half-turn that makes the jig glide. Choose a capacity for 300 m of PE 1.5 to 3, a 7 to 12 kg drag and a low to medium gear ratio, 5:1 to 6.3:1. A digital line counter helps you repeat the layer where the fish is. For heavy speed jigging, prefer a larger size with a 10 to 15 kg drag.
Use color-marked PE every 10 m to know the depth.
On touching bottom, reel in 2 or 3 turns before working the jig: it prevents snags.
Rinse and loosen the drag at the end of the day.
Using a regular casting baitcaster: the drag and gears cannot take it.
Letting the jig drop free without thumb control: the PE tangles on the spool.
line ties everything together. a mistake here means losing the fish at the knot, on the rock or at the tooth.
Monofilament stretches a lot, is cheap and forgives mistakes. Braid barely stretches, is thin for its strength and gives sensitivity and hookset at a distance, but it is visible and weak against rock: it needs a leader. Fluorocarbon sinks, is discreet in water and resists abrasion; in Brazil it is used mostly as a leader. Fly line is a different system, joined to backing and tippet. The rating printed on the package is not always accurate: compare by diameter. Replace mono once a season, or sooner if it has had a lot of sun. Braid lasts longer, but cut off the worn section.
see 6 items in lines
lines$
Monofilament (nylon)
Cheap, stretchy and easy to tie. Good for beginners, natural bait and waiting fishing.
sizes and how to choose
Diameter
0.16 to 1.00 mm
Stretch
high (somewhere between 15% and 30% until it breaks)
Buoyancy
sinks slowly
Lifespan
about one season; less in strong sun
Knots
uni, Palomar, improved clinch
Choose by diameter, not just by rating. For lambari and tilapia, 0.18 to 0.25 mm; pay lake with tambacu, 0.30 to 0.40 mm; river with catfish, 0.40 to 0.60 mm; beach, 0.30 to 0.35 mm with a shock leader. Elasticity cushions the strike and head shakes, so it pairs well with circle hooks and natural bait. Clear or green for clear water; yellow or orange when you need to see the line.
Run your fingers over the last few meters: if it is rough or whitish, cut it.
Keep it away from sun and the heat of the car.
Wet the knot before tightening it.
Buying the thickest to be safe: it casts badly and the fish gets suspicious.
Using the same line for years.
Old line at the pay lake: a large tilapia breaks it on the first pull.
4-strand braid: rougher, more abrasion-resistant and cheaper.
sizes and how to choose
Strands
4
Surface
rougher
Abrasion
resists more than 8x of the same diameter
Casting
less than 8x
Stretch
less than 5%
With fewer strands in the braid, each strand is thicker, which handles abrasion against wood and rock better. The cost is a rough surface: it makes noise in the guides, casts less far and sinks more into the spool. It is good for bottom fishing, drift, budget jigging and fishing in submerged timber, where line scrapes. For casting artificial lures all day, the 8x does better.
Use a leader even with 4x: the braid cannot take a tooth or a long scrape on rock.
To tie to the leader, use an FG or Albright knot.
Stick one wrap of tape on the spool before spooling.
Smooth, round and quiet. The standard for artificial lures.
sizes and how to choose
Strands
8
Numbering
PE 0.4 to 10 (Japanese standard)
Stretch
less than 5%
Casting
better than 4x
Lifespan
several seasons, cutting off the worn section
Eight strands form a rounder, smoother braid: it casts farther, makes less noise in the guides and lays better on the spool. For tucunaré-amarelo and snook, PE 1.5 to 2.5 (30 to 40 lb); tucunaré-açu and fish in submerged timber, PE 3 to 5 (50 to 80 lb); jigging, PE 2 to 5. Strong colors help you see the line and the bite; line that changes color every 10 m helps in jigging.
When the used section is worn, reverse the line on the spool: the bottom is new.
After a big fish, reel in under tension: loose wraps underneath trap the ones above.
Compare the actual diameter, not just the rating on the package.
Tying straight to the snap, with no leader, in clear water.
Using a mono knot (simple clinch) on braid: it slips.
The smoothest braid. More casting distance and silence, less resistance to abrasion.
sizes and how to choose
Strands
9 to 12
Surface
very smooth
Abrasion
thinner than 4x and 8x
Casting
the best among braids
With 9 to 12 very thin strands, the line is almost round and slides through the guides. It is excellent for light lures, fine fishing and long casts. Because each strand is thin, it frays faster on rock, wood and barnacles. Use it in open water, beach fishing with artificial lures, black bass in reservoirs and popping, where distance matters more than abrasion. It is the most expensive option.
Use a slightly longer leader to protect the braid near the cover.
Pairs with a shallow-spool reel.
Buying 12x to fish tucunaré-açu in submerged timber.
Discreet in the water, sinks and resists abrasion. Used mainly as a leader.
sizes and how to choose
Density
about 1.78 (sinks)
Visibility
baixa
Abrasion
high strength
Stretch
lower than mono
Knots
Palomar, uni, FG; wet and tighten slowly
Its refractive index close to water's keeps fluoro discreet in clear water. It sinks, which helps jerkbaits, soft plastics and jigs, but gets in the way of zaras and poppers if the length is long. It is stiffer and has memory: as a main line, only in thin diameters and light tackle. As a leader, it is the standard for snook, peacock bass in clear water, black bass and offshore fishing. Fluoro sold as a leader is tougher against abrasion than fluoro sold as main line.
A fluoro knot heats up and weakens: always wet it and tighten slowly.
On a surface lure, use a short or mono leader, which sinks less.
Test the knot with a firm pull before casting.
Buying very cheap fluoro with no traceability: it is not always what the package says.
Using thick fluoro as the main line on a spinning reel: the memory throws loops.
Heavy, thick line that carries the fly. The weight follows the rod number.
sizes and how to choose
Profile
WF (standard) or DT
Density
floating, intermediate, sink tip or full sinking
Length
27 to 30 m
Climate
tropical for the Amazon and Pantanal
In fly fishing, the weight is in the line. Choose the number that matches the rod (#8 with #8). The most used profile is WF (weight forward), with the weight concentrated at the front. Floating for surface lures and shallow water; intermediate or sinking for dorado in rapids and peacock bass in pools. Lines for tropical climates have a harder coating and do not get sticky in the heat. Details in the Fly fishing category.
Wash the line with water and mild soap and dry it with a cloth: it casts better.
Mark the line number on the tip with a permanent marker.
Cold-climate line in the Amazon: it softens and sticks.
technicalVARIVAS — Japanese Fishing Line SizeManufacturer member of JAFTMA. Reproduces the JAFS tables: nylon and fluoro diameter (1 = 0.165 mm) and PE by denier (1 = 200 den, about 0.171 mm, approximate).
leaders and tippets
the leader is the final section that takes the wear: teeth, rock, wood and the fish's eye.
Use a leader whenever the main line is braid, when the fish has teeth or when the structure scrapes. Fluorocarbon for clear water and wary fish; mono for surface and lower cost; wire when a tooth cuts any nylon. Length depends on the risk: 50 cm to 1.5 m in freshwater; 1.5 to 3 m on the rocky shore and at sea; in surf, long enough to take several wraps on the spool. Join leader and line with a fine knot (FG, Albright or uni-uni) and test before casting. For natural bait, the wire trace (hook mounted on wire leader) is the standard for catfish and dorado.
see 7 items in leaders and tippets
leaders and tippets$$
Fluorocarbon leader
Discreet and abrasion-resistant. Standard for snook, peacock bass and offshore fishing.
sizes and how to choose
Line rating
20 to 130 lb
Length
0.6–1.5 m (fresh) · 1.5–3 m (sea)
Braid knot
FG or Albright
Knot at the lure
loop for zara and minnow; strong snap for quick changes
Choose the line rating by the cover and the fish. Fat snook in mangroves, 20 to 30 lb; swordspine snook, 30 to 50 lb; tucunaré-açu in submerged timber, 50 to 80 lb; jigging and popping, 60 to 130 lb. In clear water, use the thinnest you can safely. Length 60 cm to 1.5 m in freshwater and 1.5 to 3 m at sea. Prefer fluoro sold as a leader, which is tougher against abrasion.
Run your fingers along the leader after each fish; if it is rough, replace it.
A loop knot lets the lure work freely; use it on minnows and zaras.
Carry a leader of two different ratings.
A thin leader to save money: you lose the fish on the first scrape.
Cheap, stretchy and sinks less than fluoro. Good for surface work and for absorbing a jerk.
sizes and how to choose
Line rating
30–80 lb (fresh) · 130–400 lb (trolling)
Shock leader
0.50–0.70 mm, with 5 to 6 wraps on the spool at the moment of the cast
Knots
Albright, FG, uni-uni
Trolling
crimped (crimp sleeve)
On zaras, propellers and poppers, mono helps the lure stay up and cushions the blow. It is the budget choice for peacock bass and trahira, 40 to 80 lb. On the beach, a 0.50 to 0.70 mm mono shock leader absorbs the jolt of casting with a heavy sinker. In offshore trolling, thick mono of 130 to 400 lb holds up to a marlin's bill and the fish's body scraping. Prefer stiff mono, sold for leaders.
Reference for a shock leader: about 10 lb of leader for every 28 g of sinker.
In trolling, use a crimp sleeve of the right size for the diameter and the proper crimping tool.
Mono for a leader is stiffer than mono for main line.
A short shock leader: the cast's jolt falls on the thin line and it snaps.
Use it when the fish cuts nylon: dorado, payara, piranha, large trairão, bluefish, king mackerel, wahoo, barracuda and cutlassfish. 7-strand (1x7) or 49-strand (7x7) cable, bare or coated, 30 to 90 lb in freshwater and 60 to 150 lb at sea. Length 15 to 30 cm for an artificial lure, which interferes less with the swimming action, and 30 to 60 cm for natural bait. Thick wire kills the lure's action and reduces strikes in clear water.
Replace a trace that has kinked and formed an elbow: it has lost strength.
Prefer a matte color in clear water.
For trahira, 40 to 60 lb fluoro usually does; use steel where piranha are present.
A long trace on a small zara: the lure's nose sinks and it does not swim.
A weak swivel on the trace: it opens during the fight.
Surubim and cachara have fine-toothed plates that abrade nylon; jaú swallows deep. Use 40 to 90 lb steel cable for surubim and cachara, or 90 to 150 lb for jaú and pirarara, 20 to 50 cm long. Hooks size 4/0 to 8/0 for surubim and cachara; 8/0 to 12/0 for jaú. A good-quality swivel. Buy ready-made or assemble with a crimp sleeve. Carry spare traces already made: on drift, a lot is lost to tangles.
With a circle hook, let the fish turn its head before you tighten the line: it hooks at the corner of the mouth and makes release easier.
Store the traces coiled and separated: a bent cable loses strength.
Line with 1 to 3 hook droppers above the sinker. Standard on the beach and for bottom fishing at sea.
sizes and how to choose
Main line
mono 0.40 to 1.00 mm
Droppers
10 to 30 cm
Hooks
1 to 3 per rig
Sinker
pyramid (beach) or pear (from a boat)
Assembly
three-way swivel or bead with stopper
In a dropper rig, the sinker sits at the bottom and the hooks on short droppers above, off the bottom and not tangled with each other. On the beach, use 0.40 to 0.60 mm mono for the main line, 0.30 to 0.40 mm droppers 10 to 20 cm long and hooks size 2 to 1/0 for pompano and betara. For bottom fishing from a boat, a main line of 0.60 to 1.00 mm, droppers of 0.50 to 0.80 mm and hooks size 2/0 to 6/0. Use three-way swivels or beads with stoppers on the droppers.
Make the droppers shorter than the distance between them: they will not wrap around each other.
Assemble the rigs at home and store them coiled on a card.
Tie the sinker on with line weaker than the main line: if it snags, you lose only the sinker.
Three hooks on a rocky bottom: everything tangles.
Sinker tied to line stronger than the main line: on a snag, the whole rig goes.
Thick crimped mono, sometimes with steel cable, to hold up to a bill, teeth and the fish's body.
sizes and how to choose
Material
mono or fluoro 80–400 lb; wire for toothed fish
Length
3 to 9 m (check the rules)
Attachment
crimp with loop protector
Connection
reinforced trolling swivel snap
Marlins and swordfish scrape the leader with their bill; tuna and mahi-mahi with their body; wahoo cuts with its teeth. For mahi-mahi and tuna, mono or fluoro of 80 to 150 lb; sailfish and white marlin, 100 to 200 lb; blue marlin, 200 to 400 lb. For wahoo, king mackerel and barracuda, 30 to 60 cm of steel cable ahead of the lure. Length 3 to 9 m; for records and tournaments, follow the IGFA rule or the tournament rules.
Crimp with the proper tool and test by pulling hard.
Use a protector in the loop so the mono does not cut on the ring.
Wrong-size crimp sleeve: the leader slips.
Using thin mono on a marlin leader: the bill rubs and breaks it.
The knot is the weakest point of the setup. Learn a few and tie them well.
sizes and how to choose
Braid + leader
FG, Albright
Line + hook
Palomar, uni, improved clinch
Free-swimming lure
loop knot (Rapala or perfection)
Strength
a well-tied knot loses little; a badly tightened one can cut the strength in half
For braid with a leader: FG is the thinnest and runs smoothly through the guides; Albright is easier and does the job well; uni-uni is quick for similar lines. For the lure and the hook: Palomar and uni; loop knot (Rapala or perfection) to let the lure swim free. Length: 50 cm to 1.5 m in freshwater; in surf, enough to take several wraps on the spool; 1.5 to 5 m for jigging and popping, with the knot going onto the spool.
Practice the FG at home until you can tie it in a few minutes.
Trim the tag end leaving 2 to 3 mm.
Test every knot with a firm pull before the first cast.
Tightening the knot dry: friction heats and weakens the line.
the right hook hooks and holds; the wrong one lets the fish go or hurts it for nothing.
Choose the pattern by the technique and the size by the fish's mouth, not its weight. In the Western numbering, from the small numbers up to 1, the larger the number, the smaller the hook; then come 1/0, 2/0 and so on, and from there the hook grows with the number. Japanese hooks (maruseigo, chinu, iseama) have their own numbering, which grows with the number. Actual size varies between brands and models. Fine wire penetrates easily and keeps bait alive; heavy wire handles strong fish. For catch and release, crimp the barb with pliers. Keep the point sharp: if it slides over your nail, sharpen or replace it.
see 9 items in hooks and treble hooks
hooks and treble hooks$
J hook (common)
The classic shape. It hooks wherever the point touches, including the throat.
sizes and how to choose
Shank
short, medium or long
Wire
fine to forged (2X, 3X = heavier)
Sizes
16 to 10/0
Barb
with or without; crimp to release
Works for almost anything with natural bait, as long as you set the hook at the right moment. A long shank makes the hook easy to remove and protects the line from small teeth; a short shank hides better in the bait. Fine wire for live bait and soft-mouthed fish such as weakfish and croaker; thick, forged wire for pacu, tambacu and catfish. If the fish swallows it and the plan is to release it, prefer a circle hook.
Long shank for small-toothed fish such as piranha and cutlassfish prevents cutting the line.
On rocky bottom, sharpen the point with every bait change.
Waiting too long to set the hook: the fish swallows the bait and the hook catches in the throat.
Hook too big for the mouth: the fish eats the bait without taking the hook.
Point turned toward the shank. It hooks itself at the corner of the mouth and almost never in the throat.
sizes and how to choose
Point
turned toward the shank
Offset
in-line (no offset) or offset
Sizes
1 to 16/0
Hookset
take up the line, no jerk
Works with natural bait left still or drifting: the fish eats, turns, and the hook slides to the corner of the mouth. Do not jerk; just take up the line by turning the handle. Ideal for catch and release, waiting fishing, live bait for snook and tuna, and catfish. The in-line model (no offset point) is the best for release. As a rule, use one or two sizes above the J for the same bait. Many tournaments require circle hooks with natural bait.
Keep the point and barb clear: bait covering the point prevents the hookset.
With a free-spool reel, just turn the handle and let the line tighten.
Setting the hook with a jerk: it pulls the hook out of the mouth.
Wide opening between the point and the shank. For large live bait and bulky soft plastics.
sizes and how to choose
Gap
larga
Sizes
1 to 6/0
Wire
fine to medium
Use
live bait and bulky soft plastics
The wide gap leaves room for the bait and keeps the point exposed. Good for live lambari, tuvira and shrimp, and for thick shads and worms. For snook with live shrimp, 1/0 to 2/0 in fine wire; for trahira and peacock bass with live bait, 2/0 to 4/0. Fine wire keeps the bait alive longer.
Hook live shrimp under the horn of the head, avoiding the dark spot: it lives longer.
Thick wire on shrimp: it kills the bait right away.
Shank with a step that locks the soft bait and hides the point. The base of the Texas and Carolina rigs.
sizes and how to choose
Shape
offset or EWG
Sizes
1/0 to 5/0
Use
worm, frog bait, lead-free shad
Rigs
Texas and Carolina
The step near the eye holds the head of the bait, and the point goes back into the body of the soft plastic, making it weedless. Choose by bait size: a 10 to 15 cm worm needs 2/0 to 3/0; shads and baits of 12 to 18 cm, 3/0 to 5/0. The EWG (extra-wide gap) leaves room for the point to pass through thick soft plastic. The hookset has to be firm: the point must go through the plastic.
Keep the point resting just below the surface of the plastic: it hooks more easily and does not snag.
Hook too small for thick soft plastic: the point does not go through.
Short shank, turned-back eye and light wire. Hides well in the bait and hooks quickly.
sizes and how to choose
Shank
curta
Eye
virado
Sizes
4 to 6/0
Knot
snell or palomar
The eye turned back makes it easy to tie a snell knot and aligns the point with the line. The short shank disappears inside shrimp, a piece of sardine or dough. Good for small and medium natural bait, pay lakes and beaches. Sizes 4 to 6/0. For live bait for peacock bass and snook, it is an alternative to the wide gap.
The snell knot, tied to the shank, improves the hookset with natural bait.
Hook with a molded lead head. Weight, shape and hook change everything.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
3–7 g (shallow) · 10–21 g (current) · 28–100 g (deep sea)
Head
round, bullet, fish or stand-up
Hook
1/0 to 6/0, reinforced wire
Lock
barb or spring to hold the soft plastic
The weight sets depth and fall speed: 3 to 7 g in shallow, still water; 10 to 21 g in river current and snook channels; 28 g or more in deep sea. A round head works for everything; a bullet head pushes through vegetation; a stand-up head keeps the hook upright on the bottom. For peacock bass and snook, a strong-wire hook of 1/0 to 5/0. Check that the hook matches the soft bait: the point should come out in the middle of the body, not at the end.
Take the same shad with heads of three weights.
A drop of instant glue on the barb keeps the soft plastic from sliding.
Head too heavy in shallow water: the bait sinks fast and snags.
Hook attached to the head of the jig by a fiber cord. Less snagging and better hookups.
sizes and how to choose
Hook
1/0 to 9/0, forged
Cord
Kevlar, PE or high-strength fiber
Ring
solid, attached to the jig by a split ring
Position
head (standard) and tail (optional)
It sits on the head of the jig, held by a fiber loop and a solid ring. The fish attacks the head and the hook swings free, hooking better and snagging less than a treble on the tail. In slow pitch, use a pair of hooks on the head and, if you like, another on the tail. Choose a forged hook from 1/0 to 9/0 by the size of the jig and the fish, with a cord that leaves the point up to about a third of the jig's length.
In slow pitch, the pair of short hooks on the head makes sure one is always in position to hook.
Cord too long: it wraps around the jig and the leader.
Three-pointed hook on artificial lures. Hooks well, but hurts more and catches on you.
sizes and how to choose
Strength
1X (standard) to 4X (heavy)
Sizes
8 to 6/0
Barb
crimp to release
Connection
split ring of equal or greater strength
Replace the original trebles on cheap lures with reinforced models (2X to 4X) for tucunaré-açu, swordspine snook and sea fish. Use the same size as the original, or one size up if the lure still swims well. A 12 to 15 cm zara for tucunaré-açu: reinforced 2/0 to 4/0; a 9 to 11 cm minnow: 2 to 1/0. To release, crimp the barbs: you lose few fish and release is easier. At sea, use an anti-corrosion finish.
A treble that is too large changes the swimming action and one catches on the other.
Carry long-nose pliers and a hook cutter on the boat.
Fishing for tucunaré-açu with the original thin treble.
Grabbing the lure while the fish is still thrashing: treble in your hand.
Popular patterns at pay lakes. Their own numbering, which grows with the number.
sizes and how to choose
Numbering
grows with the number (unlike the Western scale below 1)
Maruseigo
tilapia and small-mouthed fish
Chinu
large tilapia, pacu, carp
Iseama
tambacu, pacu and tambaqui at pay lakes
Widely used for tilapia, pacu, tambacu and carp with dough and pellets. The maruseigo has finer wire and suits small-mouthed fish, such as tilapia; the chinu and iseama are sturdier, with a rounded bend, for pacu, tambacu and carp. Here the hook grows with the number: maruseigo 12 is bigger than maruseigo 8. There is no exact equivalence with the Western numbering: compare them in hand.
Many pay lakes have their own hook rules, such as banning barbs or trebles: ask first.
Buying a size 12 thinking it is small, as in the Western standard.
visible strike on the surface. the most exciting fishing, best with calm water and low light.
Surface lures work on the water film and trigger strikes with noise, shadow and movement. They do best early in the morning, late in the afternoon, on overcast days and in shallow water with cover. A zara moves in a zigzag; a propeller makes steady noise; a popper pops, splashes and stops; frogs and frog-style baits pass over vegetation where other lures snag. Golden rule: only set the hook when you feel the fish's weight on the rod. A bump is not a hookset. With strong wind and chop, use louder lures or drop to mid-water.
see 7 items in surface artificial lures
surface artificial lures$$
Zara (surface stickbait)
A floating cigar-shaped lure with no lip that walks in a zigzag with rod-tip taps.
sizes and how to choose
Size
7 to 15 cm
Weight
8 to 30 g
Buoyancy
flutuante
Action
zigzag (walking the dog)
Trebles
2; replace with reinforced ones for large fish
Work it with short, rhythmic rod-tip taps, leaving the line slack between them: that is what makes the lure turn sideways. For tucunaré-açu and blue peacock bass, 11 to 15 cm and 15 to 30 g; for tucunaré-amarelo, trahira and snook, 7 to 11 cm. A zara with a rattle calls from afar in dark water; the silent one works in clear water and with pressured fish. Prefer a model with reinforced trebles or replace the originals.
Tucunaré-açu often misses the first strike: do not stop the lure, keep working it.
A loop knot on the leader lets the zara swim looser.
Fast rhythm for active fish; pauses for wary fish.
Set the hook on the strike, before feeling the weight.
A long 12 to 25 cm plug, floating or sinking, for tuna, bigeye and crevalle jack.
sizes and how to choose
Size
12 to 25 cm
Weight
40 to 150 g
Buoyancy
floating or slow sinking
Hooks
forged treble 2/0–5/0 or single forged hooks
It imitates an injured fish swimming just below or at the surface. Work it with long pulls and pauses, or with the rod low at a steady pace. Choose the weight by the rod and wind: 40 to 80 g for rocky shore and light popping; 80 to 150 g for large tuna and bigeye. The size follows the local bait: a small sardine calls for a smaller plug. Rig it with a split ring and forged treble or high-strength single forged hooks.
When tuna school at the surface, cast ahead of and beyond the school and run the lure along the edge, not through the middle.
A plug with propellers on the ends that splashes and makes steady noise on the retrieve.
sizes and how to choose
Size
7 to 14 cm
Propellers
1 (rear) or 2 (front and rear)
Weight
10 to 40 g
Action
pulls with a pause or steady retrieve
The noise calls fish from afar and works well with chop and dark water. Work it with firm rod pulls and short pauses, or with a steady retrieve. The double propeller is the classic tucunaré-açu lure: 10 to 14 cm. For tucunaré-amarelo and trahira, 7 to 10 cm. The propellers have to spin freely; slightly bending the blades changes the sound.
After a missed strike, stop the lure for a moment: the tucunaré usually comes back.
Retrieving too slowly: the propeller does not turn and the lure sinks by the tail.
Concave mouth that pops and splashes with every rod tap.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 20 cm
Weight
5 to 150 g
Mouth
concave, more or less deep
Action
pop and pause
Give a sharp rod-tip flick and pause. Long pauses for still fish; fast rhythm for aggressive fish. Small (5 to 8 cm) for fat snook, black bass, trahira and tucunaré-amarelo; medium (9 to 12 cm) for swordspine snook and large tucunaré; large popping models (60 to 150 g) for crevalle jack, tuna and bigeye. A deeper mouth makes more noise and splashes more.
In calm, clear water, use a small popper and gentle taps.
Long pulls as if it were a zara: the popper should pop and stop.
Hollow rubber frog with a double hook turned upward. Passes over vegetation without snagging.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 7 cm
Hook
double, turned up
Line
PE 4–6 braid
Action
zigzag taps over vegetation or in open water
Made for water hyacinth, floating mats and flooded grass, where other lures snag. The body flattens on the strike and exposes the hook. Use a heavy rod (20 to 40 lb or more) and PE 4 to 6 braid (60 to 90 lb): the fish has to come out of the vegetation with force. Sizes 5 to 7 cm. After the strike, let the fish sink with the lure for one or two seconds before setting the hook.
After the strike, lower the rod, count one, two and set the hook hard.
Squeeze the body before use: the hook should come out easily.
Thin line: the fish wraps around the vegetation and breaks it.
Setting the hook on the blowup: it pulls the frog out of the mouth.
Soft frog with paddle legs, rigged on an offset hook. Swims on the surface with a steady retrieve.
sizes and how to choose
Size
6 to 12 cm
Hook
offset or EWG 3/0–5/0
Action
steady retrieve with leg kicking
Extra weight
optional, to cast farther
The legs kick and make constant noise on the surface, like a soft buzzbait. Rigged on an offset or EWG hook of 3/0 to 5/0, with the point resting on the body, it passes over vegetation. Steady retrieve, fast enough to keep the lure on top. Excellent for trahira in shallow ponds and marshes. Carry several: a trahira's teeth tear the silicone.
A drop of glue on the head holds the silicone on the hook.
Set the hook before the trahira closes its mouth on the lure.
Wire lure with a metal propeller that buzzes on the surface with a constant retrieve.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
7 to 14 g
Propeller
metal, 2 or 3 blades
Exit
silicone
Action
steady retrieve
Works in shallow water, over submerged vegetation and in low light. Start reeling as soon as the lure lands, fast enough for the blade to buzz without sinking. Weights of 7 to 14 g for trahira, black bass and tucunaré-amarelo. If the fish miss a lot, add an extra hook to the main hook.
Start turning the handle just before the lure touches the water: it is already working as it falls.
lures that swim below the surface and cover the 0.5 to 4 m range.
This is the zone where fish spend much of the day, especially with high sun and colder water. The lip sets the depth: a short lip swims shallow; a long one swims deep. A floater rises on the pause; a suspending lure hangs still; a sinker drops. Vary the speed before changing lures. Minnows and jerkbaits imitate small baitfish; crankbaits vibrate and bang into structure; lipless lures vibrate hard and cover ground fast; spinnerbaits run through brush; spoons and spinners flash and sway. Check the working depth on the package and choose by the layer where the fish is.
see 7 items in mid-water lures
mid-water lures$$
Minnow
Elongated lure with a lip that imitates a small baitfish. Continuous, realistic swimming action.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 14 cm
Depth
0.5 to 4 m, depending on the lip
Buoyancy
floating, suspending or sinking
Weight
5 to 30 g
A short lip swims 0.5 to 1.5 m; a long one swims 2 to 4 m. The floater is the most versatile: it rises on the pause and passes over snags. For tucunaré and snook, 9 to 13 cm; trahira and black bass, 7 to 10 cm; dorado, 10 to 14 cm with reinforced hooks and rings. A steady retrieve with occasional rod taps imitates an injured fish.
In the river, cast upstream at an angle and retrieve following the current.
Minnow worked with jerks and pauses. The suspending version stays in place.
sizes and how to choose
Size
8 to 13 cm
Depth
0.5 to 2.5 m
Buoyancy
suspending, slow floating or slow sinking
Action
jerks and pauses
Give two or three short downward rod-tip jerks and pause. The fish strikes on the pause. Suspending models are best for cold water and inactive fish; the slow floater works well over shallow structure. Sizes of 8 to 13 cm for black bass, tucunaré and snook. In clear water, natural and translucent colors.
On a cold day, stretch the pauses to 5 to 10 seconds.
Pause too short: the fish follows the lure and does not strike.
Fat body and wide lip that vibrates hard and bangs into structure.
sizes and how to choose
Size
4 to 9 cm
Depth
0.5 to 6 m
Lip
square, round or long
Action
strong vibration
The wide body displaces a lot of water, and the lip makes the lure dive and bounce off logs and rock, which triggers strikes. Choose the lip by depth: square bill for 0.5 to 1.5 m among timber; medium for 2 to 3 m; long for 4 m or more. Keep a steady retrieve; when it hits structure, stop and let the lure rise.
A lower gear ratio reel (5:1 to 6.3:1) tires less with deep crankbaits.
Rod too fast and stiff: the treble tears the fish's mouth.
Lure with no lip, sinking, with a rattle. Vibrates and makes noise on the retrieve.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 9 cm
Weight
7 to 30 g
Buoyancy
afundante
Action
vibration and rattle
Covers ground fast on sandy beaches, the edge of submerged vegetation and channels. It sinks: count until it reaches the desired depth, then retrieve steadily or in a lift-and-drop, pulling and letting it fall. For tucunaré, trahira and black bass, 7 to 14 g; snook and weakfish in channels, 14 to 30 g. The rattle helps in murky water.
Count the sink on the first cast to find the depth of the spot.
Leaving the lure still on the bottom in brush: it snags.
V-shaped wire with spinning blades and a skirt. Runs through brush without snagging much.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
7 to 21 g
Blades
willow, Colorado or Indiana
Exit
silicone
Action
flash and vibration
The blades flash and vibrate, and the hook sits protected behind the wire arm. The willow blade flashes more and lets you retrieve fast; the Colorado, round, vibrates more and works in murky water and at night. Use 7 to 14 g for black bass, trahira and tucunaré-amarelo. Steady retrieve, running close to logs and vegetation.
Put a grub or soft plastic on the hook for bulk and vibration.
Retrieving too fast: the lure rises out of the depth.
Curved metal blade that sways and flashes. Casts far and works at several depths.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
5 to 40 g
Finish
silver, gold, copper or painted
Action
sway and flash
Assembly
with a swivel or snap with a swivel
Compact and heavy for its size, it casts far even in wind. Retrieved slowly, it sways; too fast, it spins and twists the line, so use a swivel. The weedless spoon passes through vegetation for trahira. At sea, heavy spoons catch anchovy, bluefish and bonito from the beach and rocky shore. Silver or gold for sun; copper or painted for murky water.
Put a swivel 30 to 50 cm from the spoon so the line does not twist.
Tying the spoon straight to the line: everything twists.
Shaft with a blade that spins around it. Small, light and effective in rivers and lakes.
sizes and how to choose
Size
0 to 4 (about 2 to 10 g)
Blade
round or elongated
Action
continuous spin
Hook
treble; replace with a single hook to release
The blade spins around the shaft, vibrating and flashing. Excellent for trout, piraputanga, matrinxã, black bass and tucunaré-amarelo. Sizes 0 to 4 (about 2 to 10 g). Reel only enough for the blade to spin. In current, cast upstream at an angle. Use a swivel to avoid twisting the line.
In trout rivers and catch-and-release waters, replace the treble with a single barbless hook.
Retrieving so slowly that the blade does not turn.
for when fish are holding close to the bottom: channels, pools, reefs or rock.
Weight and bottom contact are everything. Use the lightest weight that still lets you feel the bottom. Many strikes happen on the fall: keep the line tight and watch it. Soft plastics (shad, grub, worm, shrimp) have realistic action and are cheap; feather jigs are a middle ground; metal jigs and slow-pitch jigs drop fast in deep sea. Change the cadence before changing the lure. In rock and timber, use weedless rigs, such as the Texas, with the point hidden.
see 7 items in bottom lures and jigs
bottom lures and jigs$
Shad on a jig head
Silicone baitfish with a paddle tail rigged on a leaded head. Versatile and cheap.
sizes and how to choose
Size
7 to 20 cm
Jig head
3 to 60 g
Tail
paddle (paddle tail)
Action
continuous vibration
The paddle tail vibrates even when worked slowly. Choose the size by the fish: 7 to 10 cm for fat snook, tucunaré-amarelo and black bass; 10 to 15 cm for swordspine snook, weakfish and blue peacock bass; 15 to 20 cm at sea. The jig head weight follows the bottom and current. Work it with rod taps, letting it drop to the bottom, or with a slow, steady retrieve close to the bottom.
Channel snook: cast above the spot, against the current, and let the lure roll along the bottom to the structure.
Leaded head with feathers, hair or nylon. Pulses in the water and sinks slowly.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
7 to 40 g
Material
feathers, hair (bucktail) or nylon
Hook
2/0 to 5/0, strong
Action
fiber pulse and slow fall
A classic for peacock bass in the Amazon and in reservoirs: the fibers pulse even when the lure is still. For tucunaré, 7 to 14 g with a strong 2/0 to 4/0 hook; snook and bluefish, 10 to 30 g. Work it with short jerks, letting it fall between them, or sweeping the mid-water. White and yellow for clear water; red with yellow or black with red for dark water.
Cast beyond the spot and work the jig to the edge of the log or rock.
Retrieving fast with no pause: the fibers stick to the body and the lure loses its life.
A metal bar that sinks and darts fast. For vertical jigging and casting at sea.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
20 to 400 g
Shape
long (speed) or compact (casting)
Finish
holographic, silver or luminous
Hook
assist hook on the head
The speed jig is long and slim, worked with quick jerks, one per turn of the handle. The casting jig is short and compact, cast from the beach or rocky shore for bluefish, bonito and Spanish mackerel. Choose the weight by depth and current: 20 to 60 g for casting; 100 to 300 g for vertical jigging. Use an assist hook on the head.
A glow jig helps in deep water and on overcast days.
Treble on the tail of the jig over rock bottom: it snags and you lose the jig.
Wide, flat jig that glides on the fall. The fish strikes while it drops.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
80 to 400 g
Shape
wide and flat
Balance
center (glides) or rear (falls fast)
Line
PE 1.5 to 3
Hook
pair of assist hooks on the head
The wide shape makes the jig fall while swaying and turning sideways. Work it with a half-turn or one turn of the handle while lifting the rod tip, and let the jig drop with the line nearly slack. As a guide, 1 to 2 g per meter of depth with light current. Centered weight glides more; weight concentrated at the tail falls faster and suits current.
Work the first 10 to 20 m above the bottom: that is where most reef fish strike.
Quick speed-jig jerks: slow pitch loses its glide.
Silicone shrimp, pre-weighted or rigged on a jig head. Imitates the snook's favorite bait.
sizes and how to choose
Size
6 to 10 cm
Weight
3 to 15 g
Assembly
pre-weighted, jig head or offset hook
Action
hops and drops
Works in mangrove, estuary, pier and rocky shore. Models with internal lead and ready hooks make it easy; pure silicone goes on a light jig head (3 to 10 g) or an offset hook. Work it with short taps, hopping and falling close to the bottom, or let it drift with the tide. Sizes 6 to 10 cm. Natural and translucent colors by day; glow colors at night.
With the tide running, cast above the structure and let the water carry the shrimp to it.
Work it fast and steady: the shrimp escapes in hops, it does not swim straight.
Short body with a curly tail that wiggles at any speed.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 12 cm
Assembly
jig head or companion to other baits
Action
tail wiggle
Jig head
3 to 14 g
Simple and effective for beginners. Rig it on a 3 to 14 g jig head and reel slowly near the bottom, or make short hops. 5 to 8 cm for black bass, trahira, tucunaré-amarelo and river fish; 10 to 12 cm for snook and croaker. It also works as a companion to spinnerbaits and jigs.
Rig it with the tail pointing up: nothing more natural.
Soft plastic rigged crooked on the hook: the lure spins and twists the line.
Silicone worm with a hidden offset hook. Texas for cover; Carolina for sweeping clean bottom.
sizes and how to choose
Size
10 to 18 cm
Hook
offset or EWG 2/0–5/0
Texas sinker
3.5 to 14 g, bullet
Carolina
10–28 g sinker, 40–90 cm leader
Texas: a bullet sinker slid onto the offset hook, with the point hidden in the body, to cast into brush and vegetation. Carolina: a 10 to 28 g sinker and bead on the main line, then a swivel and a 40 to 90 cm leader to the hook; the bait follows the sinker, floating above the bottom. Worms of 10 to 18 cm. Work slowly, dragging and lifting the rod tip.
Lock the Texas sinker with a rubber stop: the rig does not slide apart on the cast.
Weak hookset: the point has to go through the silicone.
the bait the fish actually eats. fresh, well-rigged and in the right place.
With natural bait, freshness rules. Live is worth more than dead, and fresh dead is worth more than frozen and thawed several times. Use the bait of the region: the fish eats what exists in that water. Keep the live ones in a bucket with an aerator, a cool box or damp soil, always in the shade. Hide the hook without covering the point. Check the rules: many live baits have regulated collection and transport. Never release unused live bait into the river, especially if it came from another basin: it spreads invasive species.
see 10 items in natural baits
natural baits$
Earthworm and minhocuçu
The most universal freshwater bait. The minhocuçu is the giant version, for large fish.
sizes and how to choose
Types
red or red wiggler worm; minhocuçu
Hook
12 to 1 (earthworm) · 2/0 to 6/0 (minhocuçu)
Storage
damp, cool soil or sawdust, in the shade
Assembly
whole for large fish; pieces for small fish
Common earthworm works for lambari, tilapia, mandi, jundiá, piau and almost everything in freshwater: small pieces on a size 10 to 14 hook, whole worm on a size 6 to 1 hook. The minhocuçu, which grows over 30 cm, is bait for piau, piapara, mandi, catfish and jaú in rivers of the Southeast and Center-West, on a 2/0 to 6/0 hook. Buy from a licensed supplier: collecting minhocuçu has its own rules in Minas Gerais.
Thread the hook through the tip of the worm and leave a piece free to wiggle.
Leaving the worm box in the sun: they die in minutes.
A small electric fish from the Pantanal. A classic live bait for surubim, cachara and dorado.
sizes and how to choose
Size
15 to 25 cm
Hook
4/0 to 7/0 on steel leader
Storage
clean fresh water or damp grass, in the shade
Region
Pantanal and the Paraguay and Paraná basins
Hardy and very attractive to catfish and dorado. Choose tuviras of 15 to 25 cm, alive and active. Hook through the mouth, exiting at the top of the head, or through just behind the head, with a 4/0 to 7/0 hook on a steel leader. Keep in a box with fresh water or damp grass, in the shade. Buy from a licensed supplier: collecting live bait is regulated by state rules.
Replace the tuvira that has stopped moving: dead bait does much worse on the drift.
Small fish, alive or dead, for dorado, tucunaré, trahira and catfish.
sizes and how to choose
Size
5 to 12 cm
Hook
1/0 to 4/0, wide gap or circle
Assembly
through the lips or the back
Storage
bucket with aerator, in the shade
Lambari of 6 to 10 cm for trahira, tucunaré and dorado; larger for surubim and jaú. Hook through the lips, from below upward, to swim naturally, or through the back, behind the dorsal fin, avoiding the spine, to last longer on the float. Use a wide gap or circle hook of 1/0 to 4/0, in fine wire. Keep in a bucket with an aerator and change part of the water. Use lambari from the same basin you will fish in.
Dead lambari in strips also works for piranha and mandi.
Releasing unused lambari into the river, brought from another basin.
Live shrimp is the snook's number one bait; dead, it works for almost any beach fish. Pitu is the large river shrimp.
sizes and how to choose
Hook
1/0 to 2/0 (live) · 2 to 1/0 (piece)
Assembly
under the horn (live) or threaded through (dead)
Storage
live well with aerator (live); ice in a sealed bag (dead)
Habitat
estuary, mangrove, beach and river
Live shrimp for snook, weakfish and croaker: hook under the horn of the head with a 1/0 to 2/0 fine-wire hook and fish with a float or light sinker. Dead shrimp, whole or in pieces, for pompano, betara, croaker and sargo. Pitu, the large river shrimp of the North and Northeast, is excellent snook bait in brackish water and for catfish. Keep live ones in a live well with an aerator and water from the same place.
Cut off the tail tip of dead shrimp: it releases more scent into the water.
Shrimp frozen and thawed several times: it goes soft and slides off the hook.
Crustaceans from the beach sand. Classic baits for pompano, betara and croaker.
sizes and how to choose
Hook
2 to 1/0
Collecting
tatuí in the surf; corrupto with a pump at low tide
Storage
damp sand with seawater, in the shade
Shelf life
a few hours
Tatuí lives in the zone where the wave breaks; corrupto lives in burrows in the exposed sand at low tide and is dug out with a suction pump. Use them whole on a size 2 to 1/0 hook on the beach leader. Live or very fresh works best; dead, soft corrupto does poorly. Keep in a box with sand dampened with seawater, in the shade. Take only what you will use and return the rest to the sand.
Attach with elastic bait thread to hold up to a hard cast.
Storing tatuí in a bucket of still water: they die fast.
Hard, durable bait. In freshwater, pacu; in mangrove and rocky shore, sargo, snook, grouper and miraguaia.
sizes and how to choose
Hook
2/0 to 5/0, reinforced
Assembly
through the side of the shell, whole or in halves
Storage
bucket with damp cloth, in the shade
Shelf life
holds up to small fish
In the Pantanal, river crab is the classic bait for pacu, whole or in halves, on a reinforced 2/0 to 4/0 hook. In mangrove and rocky shore, small whole crabs and blue crabs attract sargo, swordspine snook and grouper; pieces of blue crab work for croaker and miraguaia. Thread it through the side of the shell. Keep it in a bucket with a damp cloth.
Remove the large claws: the fish takes it more easily, and the crab does not grip the bottom.
Collecting crab during the closed season: on the coast, several species have a closed season during molting (andada).
Cut baits for bottom fishing at sea, from rocky shores and from the beach. Sardine attracts by smell; squid stays on the hook.
sizes and how to choose
Cut
fillet, steak or strip
Hook
1/0 to 5/0
Storage
cool box with ice, in a sealed bag
Combination
squid + sardine on the same hook
Fresh sardine, in fillet or piece, attracts by oil and scent: good for pargo, cioba, amberjack, grouper, croaker and bluefish. It is soft: tie it on with elastic thread. Strips of squid last a long time on the hook and resist small fish; combining both on the same hook works well. Hook size 1/0 to 4/0 on the leader. Keep on ice, in a sealed bag, away from fresh water.
A whole sardine on a float, drifting, is good for bluefish and Spanish mackerel.
The bait of the pay lake. The right smell, consistency and size make the difference.
sizes and how to choose
Types
bottom dough, feeder dough, floating feed
Hook
small to medium Japanese hook (maruseigo, chinu, iseama)
Assembly
dough on the hook or on the feeder spring
Storage
closed jar, in the shade
Ready-made or homemade doughs (flour, cornmeal, ground feed and essence) for tilapia, tambacu, pacu, carp and piau. Firm consistency to hold on the cast and break apart gradually; too soft and it falls off on the cast. Floating feed on the feeder float, or a feed pellet on the hook, for tambacu and pacu at the surface. Ask the pay lake which feed they use in their ponds: the fish is used to it.
Chum before fishing, but not too much: a full fish does not bite.
Dough too soft: it comes off the hook on the first cast.
high water, when fruit falls into the flooded forest
Use fruit from the riverbank where the fish is feeding, such as laranjinha-de-pacu, tucum, guava, coconut and nuts, depending on the region. In the tap method, the fruit goes on a 2/0 to 4/0 hook and the rod tip taps the water to imitate the fall. Grapes, guava and sweet corn work at pay lakes. Firm fruit holds better on the hook; tie it with elastic thread if needed.
Watch which fruit is falling on the bank: that is what the fish is waiting for.
Beef or chicken heart and liver: firm, strong-smelling bait for catfish and bagres.
sizes and how to choose
Types
beef heart, chicken heart, liver
Hook
1/0 to 6/0
Storage
gelo
Durability on the hook
high (heart), low (liver)
Beef heart in strips or a whole chicken holds well on the hook and gives off scent. Good for mandi, jundiá, barbado, African catfish and piranha, and for surubim and cachara at night. Liver attracts more but falls off easily: tie it with elastic thread. Hook size 1/0 to 6/0, depending on the fish. Keep on ice.
Cut into long strips: they flutter in the current.
Piece too large: a small fish nibbles and does not swallow the hook.
the small parts that hold everything together. a bad piece breaks at the wrong moment.
Use the lightest weight that keeps the bait where you want it. A sliding sinker (olive) lets the fish take the bait without feeling weight; a fixed sinker (pyramid, pear) holds on the bottom and helps the fish hook itself. The float shows the bite and keeps the bait at the right height. A swivel prevents twisting, a snap speeds up bait changes, and a split ring joins the treble and the bait. Buy terminal tackle with the strength stated on the package and above your line's strength. At sea, prefer stainless steel or anti-corrosion finish.
see 9 items in sinkers, floats and terminal tackle
sinkers, floats and terminal tackle$
Olive sinker (sliding)
Hole through the middle so the line runs free. The fish takes the bait without feeling the weight.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
5 to 200 g
Assembly
line – olive – bead – swivel – leader – hook
Use
bottom in rivers, from the bank and at pay lakes
Advantage
the fish does not feel the weight
Standard bottom-fishing rig in rivers, from the bank and at pay lakes. Set the olive on the main line, then a bead and the swivel; from the swivel the leader runs to the hook. When the fish pulls, the line runs through the sinker. Choose the weight by current: 5 to 20 g in a lake; 30 to 100 g in a river with current; up to 200 g in a deep river when drifting.
The bead between the sinker and the swivel protects the knot.
Light olive in strong current: the bait rolls and snags.
Corners or claws that dig into the sand and hold the bait in place against waves and current.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
60 to 200 g
Shape
pyramid or with wire claws
Use
surf casting
Assembly
at the tip of the leader
On the beach, the pyramid digs into the sand. With a strong sideways current, use a sinker with wire claws, which anchors better and releases when you reel in. Weight of 60 to 150 g, depending on the sea. Use the lightest one that stays put: if the line drifts sideways, increase the weight.
Carry sinkers of three weights: the sea changes with the tide.
Drop shape with an eye. Sinks fast and snags little. Standard for boat bottom fishing.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
20 to 500 g
Shape
drop with eye or swivel
Use
boat, rocky shore and drift
Assembly
leader tip, with a weaker line
Goes at the tip of the leader in boat bottom fishing and on rocky shores. The smooth shape slides between rocks better than the pyramid. Choose the weight by depth and current: 50 to 150 g on a shallow reef; 200 to 500 g from 60 m with current. Attach with a line weaker than the leader: if it snags, only the sinker is lost.
Carry sinkers of several weights: the current changes through the day.
Sinker too light: the line angles away and the bait does not reach the bottom.
Keeps the bait at the right height and shows the bite.
sizes and how to choose
Types
fixed, sliding or luminous
Buoyancy
1 to 30 g
Material
foam, balsa or plastic
Adjustment
split shot until only the tip is visible
A small, slim float for lambari and tilapia: it sinks easily and shows the lightest touch. A larger, round float for live trahira, tucunaré and snook bait. Adjust with split shot until only the tip stays above water. The sliding float, locked on the line, lets you fish deep and cast easily. At night, use a float with a light stick.
Start with the bait a hand's width off the bottom and adjust the height as you go.
Large float for small bait: the fish feels resistance and drops it.
Float with a dough spring and hooks around it. Chums and fishes at the same time, at the surface.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
10 to 40 g
Droppers
2 to 4 hooks, 10 to 30 cm
Spring
dough or feed
Use
surface at pay lake
The pay lake standard for tambacu, pacu and tilapia at the surface. The dough or feed breaks apart in the spring and draws the school close to the hooks. Choose by weight, for casting, and by spring size. Use 0.30 to 0.40 mm line and short Japanese hooks on 10 to 30 cm droppers. Check the pay lake's rules: some limit the number of hooks.
Always cast to the same spot to concentrate the chum.
Dough that breaks apart too fast: it runs out before the fish arrives.
A part with a spinning axle that prevents line twist.
sizes and how to choose
Types
barrel, bearing, three-way
Strength
10 to 300 lb
Material
brass or stainless steel
Finish
matte or black
Use it between the line and the leader, before spoons and spinners and in all bottom fishing. The barrel type is simple and cheap; the bearing type turns better under load. Choose a strength above the line. The three-way swivel forms the rig. A black or matte color reduces the glint that attracts toothed fish, which end up cutting the line there.
Speeds up lure changes and lets the lure move more freely. Choose a model with a strong lock, rated above the leader. For zara, minnow and crankbait, a snap without a swivel. For lures that spin (spoon, spinner), a snap with a swivel. Avoid a heavy snap on a small surface lure: the extra weight sinks the nose.
Check the snap after every big fish: it may have partly opened.
Weak snap on tucunaré-açu: it opens on the first jump.
Double spiral ring that attaches a treble or hook to the lure.
sizes and how to choose
Size
numbering varies by manufacturer
Strength
20 to 300 lb
Material
stainless steel or carbon steel
Use
treble, assist hook, lure
Change the rings along with the trebles when you reinforce a lure, always with strength equal to or greater than the treble's. Use proper pliers to open them. Stainless for salt water. On a jig, the solid ring attached to the split ring holds the assist hook.
Split ring pliers save your nails and time.
Keeping the original weak ring with a reinforced treble: the ring opens.
Plastic or glass beads that protect the knot and make noise; the stopper sets the height.
sizes and how to choose
Material
plastic, glass or luminous
Size
3 to 10 mm
Use
protect the knot, attract, set height
Position
between sinker and swivel
Between the sliding sinker and the swivel, the bead keeps the sinker from hitting the knot and weakening it. The glass one makes a click when it hits the sinker in the Carolina rig. Colored and luminous beads attract in beach fishing and on the sea floor. The rubber stopper fixes the height of the sliding float and locks the Texas sinker.
what saves the fishing and the angler: releasing the fish well, seeing the water and coming back whole.
Put together a fixed kit with the basics: pliers, a fish grip, polarized glasses, gloves, a flashlight and a life jacket. An accessory does not catch fish, but it reduces fish loss, protects hands and eyes and makes catch and release work. Choose materials that do not rust at sea. Organize baits by technique in small boxes: changing is faster and the boat carries less weight. Keep pliers and the flashlight in your pocket, not at the bottom of your backpack.
see 10 items in accessories
accessories$$
Fishing pliers
Removes hooks, opens split rings, cuts line and crimps barbs.
sizes and how to choose
Length
15 to 25 cm
Material
anodized aluminum or stainless steel
Functions
remove hook, cut braid, open split ring
Safety
coiled cord and sheath
Long nose to remove a treble from the mouth of tucunaré, trahira and dorado without putting your hand close. Blade that cuts braid cleanly. The split ring opener saves time. At sea, aluminum or stainless with a safety cord. For trolling, also carry crimping pliers.
Crimp the barbs with the pliers before fishing: release will be faster.
Ordinary tool pliers: they rust and do not cut braid.
A grip that holds the fish by the mouth without touching the body.
sizes and how to choose
Material
aluminum or reinforced plastic
Capacity
up to 15 to 30 kg
Extra
built-in scale (optional)
Safety
cord
Holds toothed fish and loose trebles without risk to the hand. Some models have a built-in scale. Choose by the size of the fish: smaller for trahira and tucunaré-amarelo; larger for tucunaré-açu and dorado. Never lift a large fish by the grip alone in a vertical position: support the belly with your other hand.
Clamp the grip to the center of the lower lip.
Hanging a large fish by the mouth: it damages the jaw.
Hand net for bringing the fish aboard without forcing the line or the mouth.
sizes and how to choose
Net
rubber or knotless mesh
Hoop
40 to 80 cm
Butt
fixed or telescopic, 1 to 3 m
Use
boat, pier, rocky shore, pay lake
Knotless rubber mesh protects the slime and the fins and does not catch trebles. Large hoop and long handle for snook and high-sided boats. On the beach and the rocky shore, a telescopic handle helps you lift the fish off the rock. Put the net in the water and guide the fish head-first into it; do not chase the fish with the net.
Many pay lakes lend landing nets: ask.
Knotted nylon net: it takes scales off and catches hooks.
Fabric gloves with UV protection and free fingers, so you can cast all day without burning your hand. Leather gloves or ones with a reinforced palm for holding the leader in trolling and jigging. Cut-resistant gloves for handling toothed and spiny fish. In catch and release, wet the glove before touching the fish.
In trolling, use thick gloves to haul the leader to the boat.
Holding thick leader with a bare hand and a large fish on the line: it cuts your hand.
Cuts water glare to see structure, fish and bait. It also protects your eyes from hooks.
sizes and how to choose
Lens
polarized, polycarbonate or glass
Colors
amber/brown, copper, gray, yellow
Protection
UV400
Frame
wraparound, with cord
Polarized lenses cut surface glare. Colors: amber, brown or copper for freshwater and variable light; gray for strong sun and open sea; yellow or rose for dawn and overcast days; blue mirrored for sea with plenty of sun. Wraparound frames block side light. Polycarbonate lenses resist impact from lures and sinkers.
Wear glasses whenever someone casts near you: a treble in the eye is an emergency.
Non-polarized sunglasses: they protect from the sun, but do not cut the glare.
Organizes baits and terminal tackle and protects trebles and soft plastics.
sizes and how to choose
Shape
box with dividers, bag or backpack
Size
standard sizes that fit in bags
Sealing
recommended at sea
Organization
by technique
Boxes with movable dividers, in standard sizes that fit in a bag or backpack. One box per technique: surface, mid-water, bottom and terminal tackle. Soft baits in the original packaging or in a separate box: some plastics melt on contact with other plastics and with hard lures. At sea, use a sealed box or one with an anti-humidity sachet.
Dry the baits before storing: a wet treble hook rusts and stains the others.
Keep soft baits apart from hard lures.
accessories$
Scale (dynamometer)
Weighs the fish and sets the drag.
sizes and how to choose
Type
digital or spring
Capacity
10 to 50 kg or more
Use
fish weight and drag setting
Digital or spring scale, with a hook. To weigh a fish, use it with a landing net or lip grip, quickly and without hanging the fish by the gill. To set the drag, hook the line that runs through the guides to the scale and pull with the rod bent. Choose a capacity above the biggest fish you expect: 25 kg covers freshwater; at sea, 50 kg or more.
Weigh the fish inside the landing net and subtract the weight of the net.
Hanging the fish by the gill to weigh it.
accessories$
Measuring ruler
Confirms the legal minimum and maximum size and records the fish for release and tournaments.
sizes and how to choose
Length
60 cm to 1.5 m
Type
flat, channel, flexible or adhesive, for the boat
Reading
centimeters with large markings
Material
floating plastic or aluminum
Flat or channel ruler, preferably floating, 60 cm to 1.5 m. Measure with the fish lying flat, mouth closed, from the snout to the end of the tail, unless the regulation or tournament calls for another measurement. Wet the ruler first to protect the slime coat. It is essential: enforcement works with minimum and maximum sizes.
Stick an adhesive ruler on the gunwale to measure quickly.
Measuring a fish that is curved or has its tail bent.
accessories$$
Life jacket
Mandatory safety item on the boat. It only works if you are wearing it.
sizes and how to choose
Approval
Brazilian Navy, class compatible with the navigation area
Types
foam, fishing with pockets, inflatable
Adjustment
according to the weight of the user
Inspection
inflatable: cylinder and trigger per the manufacturer
Use a life jacket approved by the Brazilian Navy, in the class required for the navigation area, and sized for each person's weight. For fishing, a jacket with pockets or an inflatable belt or suspender type is less bothersome, which is why they stay on the body. An inflatable needs its cylinder and trigger checked per the manufacturer. Children wear a child's vest with a strap between the legs.
Put on the vest before starting the engine, not when the weather turns.
Vest stored in the locker, out of reach.
Adult vest on a child.
accessories$
Headlamp
Hands-free for baiting, tying knots and walking in the dark.
sizes and how to choose
Power
200 to 500 lumens
Protection
IPX4 to IPX7
Modes
white, red and low
Battery
rechargeable, with a spare
Choose a model with a red light, which does not dazzle and scares fish less, 200 to 500 lumens in white mode, water resistance of IPX4 or more (IPX7 for boat and beach), and a rechargeable battery. Carry a spare battery or cells. Strong light aimed at the water scares fish: from the bank, use the red or low mode.
On night fishing from a boat, also keep the navigation lights on.
they show the bottom, structure and fish, and guide the boat safely.
Sonar does not fish for you, but it shortens the way. 2D with CHIRP shows depth, bottom hardness and fish below the boat. Down imaging draws the bottom in detail; side imaging sweeps the sides. Live sonar shows fish and bait in real time. GPS with charts marks fishing spots and avoids rocks and shoals. Electric motor with virtual anchor holds the boat on the spot. VHF radio is safety at sea. A 5 to 7 inch screen is enough on a small boat; 9 inches or more when you use several images at once. Learn to read the screen before thinking about upgrading.
see 7 items in electronics
electronics$$
2D and CHIRP sonar
Basic sonar: depth, bottom type and fish below the boat.
sizes and how to choose
Frequency
50/83 kHz (bottom) · around 200 kHz (shallow)
Technology
2D traditional or CHIRP
Screen
4 to 7 inches
Range
depends on power and frequency
Traditional sonar emits one frequency; CHIRP sweeps a band of frequencies and separates fish stuck to the bottom and fish close to each other better. High frequency (around 200 kHz) shows detail in shallow water; low frequency (50 to 83 kHz) reaches deeper bottoms at sea. For rivers and reservoirs, a 2D with CHIRP and GPS is enough. Install the transducer where the water flows clean, without bubbles.
The arch appears because the boat passes over the fish: with the boat stopped, the fish becomes a straight line.
Transducer badly installed: screen full of noise with the boat moving.
Almost photographic image of what is below the boat: branches, rocks and schools.
sizes and how to choose
Frequency
455 and 800 kHz (typical)
Best range
up to 30–40 m
Shows
structure and bottom in detail
Use
split screen with the 2D
It uses a thin high-frequency beam (typically 455 and 800 kHz) to draw structure in detail. It shows timber, rock, wrecks and bait schools, and helps separate fish from structure. Works best up to 30 to 40 m. Works best in split screen with the 2D: the 2D shows the fish; down imaging shows where it is.
Pass slowly over the spot, at 3 to 6 km/h, so the image comes out sharp.
Thinking every bright spot on the screen is a fish.
Sweeps the sides of the boat and shows a wide strip of the bottom.
sizes and how to choose
Side range
30 to 70 m to each side (typical)
Frequency
455 and 800 kHz (typical)
Ideal speed
5 to 10 km/h
Use
mapping structure and marking points
Shows structure and fish tens of meters to each side, depending on frequency and depth. Ideal for mapping timber in reservoirs, holes in rivers and rocks in shallow sea. Mark the points on the GPS and go back to fishing. Works best in water up to 20 to 30 m, with the boat in a straight line and slow.
Make parallel passes, like mowing a lawn, to cover the whole area.
Shows fish, bait and structure in real time in front of or below the boat.
sizes and how to choose
Image
real time, like video
View
forward, down or perspective
Range
tens of meters; varies by model
Screen
9 inches or larger
The movable transducer points forward, down or in perspective, and the screen updates like video: you see the fish follow and strike the lure. Market models include LiveScope, ActiveTarget and MEGA Live. Requires a compatible screen of 9 inches or more and, preferably, a swivel mount or integration with the electric motor. It is the most expensive item and the one that needs the most reading practice.
Learn in water you know, where you already know what is on the bottom.
Staring at the screen and forgetting to fish and to steer.
Marks fishing spots, stores the return track and shows navigation hazards.
sizes and how to choose
Type
integrated with the sonar or handheld
Charts
official from the Navy and commercial
Features
track, points, real-time mapping
Backup
memory card or cloud
Integrated with the sonar it is the most practical. At sea and on large reservoirs, use electronic charts with bathymetry. In Brazil, the official nautical charts come from the Navy; commercial maps and the real-time mapping done by the unit itself help on reservoirs. Save the points with name and date and make a backup. Also carry a handheld GPS or a phone with an offline map.
Record the outbound track: in fog or at night, go back along it.
Navigating only by the screen without looking at the water: charts have errors and sandbanks move.
electronics$$$
Electric motor with virtual anchor
Moves the boat silently and holds it on the spot by GPS, without dropping an anchor.
sizes and how to choose
Thrust
30 to 112 lb
Voltage
12, 24 or 36 V
Assembly
bow (standard) or stern
Features
virtual anchor, autopilot, remote control
Choose thrust for the boat: as a reference, 2 lb of thrust for every 100 lb of loaded boat weight, more if there is wind and current. In general, 12 V goes up to about 55 lb; 24 V, up to 80 lb; 36 V, above that. On the bow, with a foot pedal or remote control, it is the standard for casting. The virtual anchor holds the boat on the spot by GPS. At sea, only saltwater models.
Lithium battery weighs less and lasts longer, but requires its own charger.
Leaving with a weak battery: the motor stops far from the ramp.
Safety communication at sea. Channel 16 is for distress and calling.
sizes and how to choose
Power
up to 5–6 W (handheld) · up to 25 W (fixed)
Channels
16 (distress and calling) and local working channels
DSC
distress button with position (fixed and some handhelds)
Protection
IPX7 and floating (handheld)
The fixed set, up to 25 W, reaches farther and, with DSC linked to the GPS and an MMSI number, sends a distress call with the position at the press of a button. The handheld, 5 to 6 W, floating and waterproof, goes in the vest or the abandon-ship bag. A cell phone does not replace VHF: at sea, the signal disappears. Before using it, check the station licensing with Anatel and the Navy requirements for your navigation area.
fly fishing: the weight is in the line. rod, line and reel follow the same number.
In fly fishing, a thick, heavy line carries an almost weightless fly. Everything matches by number: rod #8, line #8, reel for #7 to #9. The sequence is backing on the reel, fly line, leader, tippet and fly. For peacock bass and golden dorado, #7 to #9 is the standard; #10 for tucunaré-açu with large flies and wind. Learn the basic cast before the trip: practice on the lawn 15 minutes a day. Golden dorado calls for steel tippet; peacock bass, fluorocarbon or monofilament of 30 to 60 lb.
see 8 items in fly fishing
fly fishing$$
Fly rod by number
The number tells which line the rod carries. Big fish and bulky flies call for a high number.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
#3 to #12
Length
9'0" (2.74 m), the standard
Action
medium to fast
Pieces
4
#3 to #5: lambari, trout, tilapia and small fish. #6 and #7: yellow peacock bass and popoca, piraputanga, matrinxã and peva snook. #8: the all-rounder for peacock bass and dorado. #9 and #10: tucunaré-açu, big dorado in the rapids and large flies in wind. #10 to #12: camurupim and saltwater fish. Prefer 9 feet and a fast action for large flies.
If you will have only one rod for the Amazon and the Pantanal, choose #8.
Holds the line and backing and, with strong fish, holds the run with the drag.
sizes and how to choose
Weight
same as the line
Drag
sealed disc
Backing
100 to 200 m of 20 to 30 lb
Material
machined or cast aluminum
For small fish, the reel only stores line. For peacock bass and dorado, it needs a sealed, smooth disc drag, because the fish runs and jumps. Choose by line number (for example, #7 to #9) and by backing capacity: 100 to 200 m of 20 to 30 lb. A machined aluminum body resists impacts and corrosion better. Mount the handle on the side you prefer.
After the hookset, reel in the loose line: fighting a fish with line on the boat floor tangles around your foot.
A reel without drag for golden dorado: the tippet breaks on the first run.
The most used fly line: weight concentrated at the front and floating.
sizes and how to choose
Profile
WF, short heavy head
Density
flutuante
Climate
tropical
Weight
same as the rod
WF (weight forward) concentrates the weight in the head and throws large flies with few false casts. For the Amazon and the Pantanal, use a tropical-weather line, with a short, heavy head, made to turn bulky flies over. The floating line serves for poppers and surface flies, and for mid-water flies in shallow water. Use the same number as the rod; some lines come half a number heavier to load fast rods.
Clean the line at the end of the day: dirt and sunscreen ruin the coating.
Putting repellent or sunscreen on your hands and then touching the line.
They take the fly down: the intermediate sinks slowly; sink tip and full sinking lines sink fast.
sizes and how to choose
Types
intermediate, sink tip, full sinking
Rate
type 3 to type 6 (about 7.5 to 15 cm/s)
Use
rapids, pool, wind, bottom fish
Weight
same as the rod
The intermediate sinks slowly, passes just below the surface and suffers less from chop and wind. The sink tip has only the sinking tip, good for dorado rapids and peacock bass pools. The full sinking line is classified by type (type 3 sinks about 7.5 cm per second) and serves for fishing the bottom in lakes and at sea. Keep a spare spool with intermediate or sink tip, besides the floating line.
Count the fly's descent and repeat the count when you find the fish.
Thin, strong line under the fly line. Reserve for when the fish runs far.
sizes and how to choose
Material
dacron (polyester) or braided line
Strength
20–30 lb (freshwater) · 30–50 lb (sea)
Quantity
100 to 250 m
Connections
arbor knot on the reel; loop with the fly line
The fly line is 27 to 30 m long, and a strong fish takes that in seconds. The backing, of 20 to 30 lb dacron or fine braid at sea, fills the spool and gives reserve. For peacock bass and dorado, 100 to 150 m is enough; at sea, 200 m or more. Connect to the reel with an arbor knot and to the fly line with a loop-to-loop connection.
Wind on with tension: loose backing gets buried in the run and locks.
Too much backing: the fly line does not fit and scrapes the frame.
The final section between the fly line and the fly. The tippet is the end you change.
sizes and how to choose
Length
1.5 to 2.7 m
Peacock bass
monofilament or fluorocarbon of 30 to 60 lb
Golden dorado
plus 15 to 25 cm of fine steel or titanium
X numbering
0X = 0.28 mm · 3X = 0.20 mm · 5X = 0.15 mm
The tapered leader transfers energy and makes the fly land softly; the tippet is the end you change. For peacock bass, a straight leader of 1.5 to 2.5 m of monofilament or fluorocarbon of 30 to 60 lb: with a large fly, it does not need to be tapered. For golden dorado, the same, plus 15 to 25 cm of fine steel or titanium at the tip. For trout and small fish, a 2.7 m tapered leader and tippet 3X to 5X. In X numbering, the higher the number, the finer.
Bulky streamers and surface flies that push water.
sizes and how to choose
Size
8 to 15 cm
Hook
1/0 to 4/0, strong
Types
streamer, popper, gurgler, slider
Colors
yellow/red, white, chartreuse, black
Streamers of 8 to 15 cm, imitating a small baitfish, on a strong 1/0 to 4/0 hook. Surface flies (popper, gurgler, slider) for early morning and late afternoon. Colors: yellow with red, white with red, chartreuse and black in dark water. Retrieve with long, fast line pulls (strip) and set the hook by pulling the line with your hand, with the rod low, without lifting the rod.
Synthetic-material flies dry fast and are lighter in the cast.
Lift the rod on the hookset: the fly comes out of the hard mouth of the peacock bass.
Tough streamers that imitate a small baitfish in the current, tied on steel.
sizes and how to choose
Size
8 to 15 cm
Hook
2/0 to 4/0, strong
Weight
lead eyes or heavy head
Tippet
fine steel or titanium, 15 to 25 cm
Streamers of 8 to 15 cm, of tough synthetic material: the golden dorado's teeth destroy natural ones. Use a heavy head or lead eyes to sink in the eddy, or a sink tip line. Strong 2/0 to 4/0 hook, always with 15 to 25 cm of fine steel or titanium. Colors: black, black with red, yellow, golden with orange and white. Cast upstream or diagonally and retrieve following the current.
Hook with strong, repeated line pulls: the golden dorado's mouth is very hard.
technicalAFFTA (American Fly Fishing Trade Association) — Fly Line Weight SpecificationsWeight standard for fly lines (#1 to #15), in grains over the first 30 feet (9.14 m). The AFFTA PDF is offline and no archived copy exists; URL not verified.
technicalVARIVAS — Japanese Fishing Line SizeManufacturer member of JAFTMA. Reproduces the JAFS tables: nylon and fluoro diameter (1 = 0.165 mm) and PE by denier (1 = 200 den, about 0.171 mm, approximate).
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